Southeast Trip 2016 – Nashville

the Stacy Mitchhart band playing live music at Bourbon Street Blues Bar in Nashville

I was very excited to show my travel squad around Music City, and check out some new places as well.  Let’s get right to it!

Priorities:

  • Hot chicken
  • Live music
  • BBQ
  • New neighborhoods

Day 5 – Wednesday (cont.)

We had worked up quite the appetite on our Fiery Gizzard Trail hike, and I couldn’t think of anything that I wanted to do more than get some Nashville hot chicken.  We pulled directly into Hattie B’s at around 4:30pm, delighted to see that we had timed it perfectly and there was actually NOT a line out the door and around the building!

hot chicken at Hattie B's in Nashville
Hot chicken (level “Hot” – wouldn’t dare do “Shut The Cluck Up”), collards, and pimento mac. 🙏🔥

We weren’t the only ones in on this secret quiet time at Hattie B’s – when we sat down we noticed some bodyguard type figures roaming around the restaurant looking shady.  We looked to our left, and at the table across the aisle from us sat Chris Chrisley (I think his name is actually Todd – of Chrisley Knows Best on USA Network).  It pleased us that we had chosen a place where the stars dine…

I had been to Hattie B’s before a couple of times, but this was the first time that I ventured above the medium level of spice.  It was an adventure for sure, but I’d do it again!  The travel crew, however, was shocked at how hot the medium and mild levels were.  Luckily, a kind staff member brought over complimentary banana bread pudding to cool down the taste buds 👍.

After some logistics time (checking into the Airbnb, returning the rental car, shower, blah blah blah), we headed down to Broadway to take in some live music and see the sights.  We took a stroll up and down the main drag, observing the hordes of bachelorette parties and tourists, before popping into Layla’s to catch some bluegrass music.  After  a couple of Dos Perros (my favorite local drinkin’ beer), we decided it was time to head to the Nashville tourist’s Mecca: Tootsie’s.  With three floors of live music, plenty of cheap beers, and swaths of sweaty dancin’ boot-wearin’ toursits, it really is a must-see.  We spent the better part of three hours with the 2nd floor band, which was playing a good mix of stadium country, real country, and 90’s hits.

After Tootsie’s, we stumbled across the street to Paradise Park for some pretty gross but good drunk food before heading back to the Airbnb for the night.

Day 6 – Thursday

Thursday morning started with a late morning run and workout at the apartment complex gym to shake off the prior night’s activities.  By the time everyone was showered and ready to get back at it, lunch time was right around the corner.  So we chose to forego brunch and went straight to the 12 South neighborhood for some solid barbecue at Edley’s, which we confirmed with some locals is definitely among the top three BBQ joints in Nashville.

From there we walked to Frothy Monkey for a coffee, and then across the street to Five Daughters Bakery, where we tried a couple of famed 100-layer donuts.  We definitely did not have room, but we had to try ’em.

two
100-layer donuts from Five Daughters Bakery. This was not breakfast, it was lunch dessert.

After all that eating, we needed to walk around for a bit.  We decided to head over to the up and coming Germantown neighborhood to walk about and explore.  It was an interesting stroll, with some nice little houses interspersed with some run down homes, and some nice looking buildings and businesses mixed in with some rundown old warehouses.  Your classic mid-gentrification scene.  We popped into a few small shops along the way and just enjoyed the weather for a while, before hopping in an Uber back downtown en route to the Pinewood Social.

bowling alley at the Pinewood Social in Nashville
Old school alleys at Pinewood Social.

As I mentioned with regard to the Southside Social in Chattanooga, I love this kind of place.  The Pinewood Social seemed to be on the classier side of socials – with a more refined look, a quieter coffee shop area, a beautiful bar with a refined cocktail menu, some private dining rooms, the alley area, and bocce and a pool – and, of course, an Airstream – outside.  We tried a few of their fantastic cocktails and rolled a couple games of bocce before heading back to the Airbnb to get ready for dinner.

Rachel and I got ready first, and while the others freshened up we headed over to Yazoo Brewing Company for a flight (Dos Perros is still my favorite!).  From there, we were a short walk through the Gulch to our next destination – dinner with my long lost cousins!  We met them and the rest of our crew (plus Alena’s boyfriend, who had recently arrived) at Saint Añejo, a trendy Mexican restaurant.  The food and the margaritas were splendid, as was catching up with family that I hadn’t seen in years!

After dinner was one of the things I had been waiting the entire trip for.  During my previous Nashville trip, myself and a coworker stumbled upon Printers Alley, specifically the Bourbon Street Boogie and Blues Bar.  There, we saw one of the most entertaining live bands I have ever experienced – The Stacey Mitchhart Band.  Bourbon Street is their home venue, so I made sure to check on when they were playing this time around.  Stacey Mitchhart is fuego on the guitar, the rest of the band is filthy good, and they play great music – a good mix of originals and classic blues/rock jams.  The venue itself is very small and intimate, pretty divey, and when the band turns it up, it is bumpin’ in there!!  I was in my element.

travel companions watching a live music show at Bourbon Street Blues Bar in Nashville
Travel squad enjoying the music at Bourbon Street Blues and Boogie Bar.

After a few hours (and a few jello shots) there, we had to take Alena’s boyfriend over to Tootsie’s.  Which we did, followed by a stop next door at Legends Corner for another live band, before calling it a night and ordering some late-night pizza back at the Airbnb.

Day 7 – Friday

Friday started with another morning run and workout, before heading to the famed Pancake Pantry for breakfast.  If going here, make sure you block off at least 45-60 minutes of wait time!

Pancake Pantry
Waiting in line for Pancake Pantry on Belcourt Ave in Hillsboro Village.

We waited outside in the chilly morning air as the line slowly inched forward, until we were finally in.  And oh boy, was it worth the wait:

Crepes at Pancake Pantry
Yup.

Next on the agenda was a trip out to the Gaylord Opryland Resort, preceded by a cup of joe at the hip Cafe Coco while we waited for our Uber.  Walking around the resort ended up being a pretty good activity in the crappy rainy weather that we were experiencing.  Not sure I would recommend it if the weather was nice and you were only in Nashville for a few days – it is a bit of a drive outside the city.  But it certainly was impressive.

By the time we got back into the city it was almost time for supper already.  I had intentionally left this night open for improvisation, thinking that we would have spotted or thought of something that we wanted to do or eat.  It turns out we were not inspired to do anything specific, so we just headed back down to the Gulch where we were the night before, and popped into a bunch of the numerous restaurants in the area to check on the wait time.  We ended up landing at Virago, a trendy sushi/Asian fusion place.

After a very tasty dinner and a few drinks, we went to check out the truly impressive beer selection at Flying Saucer, where we met up with an old friend from college who happened to be visiting from Memphis at the time!  We drank the night away, reminiscing and catching up until the place closed down, before we reluctantly went back to the Airbnb, depressed that our trip had come to an end.

Day 8 – Saturday

Back to reality 😢.  Saturday morning we packed up our things, and had time for one final meal.  We again found ourselves in the the same cluster of restaurants in the Gulch, with another college friend this time at The Whiskey Kitchen.  After one last fried chicken, it was time to head to the airport for our flights back home…

Stay tuned for lessons learned from Southeast Trip 2016!

Highlights:

  • Stacy Mitchhart Band
  • Seeing my cousins!
  • Hattie B’s

Next Time:

People are flocking to Nashville and the city is changing rapidly.  What’s new?  What did I miss?  Add a comment!

Southeast Trip 2016 – Fiery Gizzard Trail Hike

Next up on our Southeast trip was taking on one of the top-20 hikes in America: the Fiery Gizzard Trail!

Day 5 – Wednesday (cont.)

The Fiery Gizzard Trail runs along the Fiery Gizzard Creek for about 13 miles, from Tracy City to Foster Falls in southeastern Tennessee.  We did not have time to do the entire 13 miles, and we determined that the Tracy City end of the trail was the easiest for us to get to in the car, so we started in the Grundy Forest State Park.

Day 5 – Wednesday (cont.)

Driving through Tracy City seemed like an adventure in itself.  It is a sleepy, rundown town of about 1,000 (none of whom we physically saw) that reminded me of a Criminal Minds episode.  Fortunately, we eventually made it to the park without being abducted by a serial killer, and at the trail head there a few families and couples getting ready to hike as well.

Lucky for us, the other groups were only there to explore the Grundy Day Loop, which is a short (maybe a mile or so) loop trail which, well, you can easily do in a day.  About a half mile into the loop, the real fun begins on the Fiery Gizzard trail.  We did an out and back about 4 miles each way, and in just those 4 miles we encountered all kinds of terrain.  Rocky climbs, creeks, woods, fields, falls – a little bit of everything!  The best thing was that we had the trail all to ourselves.  We only encountered one lone hiker for the four or five hours that we were out there.  And he looked legit, so we knew we had made a good trail choice.

The scenery on this hike was so great, I’ll just let the photos speak for themselves!

small waterfall on Fiery Gizzard creek
Creek scenery early in the hike.
reflection of red trees in the creek during our Fiery Gizzard trail hike
Some fall colors starting to show.
a small waterfall and creek on the Fiery Gizzard trail hike
Another small waterfall on the Fiery Gizzard Creek.
woods with trees changing colors for the fall
After a rocky climb up from the creek, the trail turns up a wooded hill where the autumn colors were more prominent.
a sign warning that the falls are dry and the trail is overrun by hornets
Thank you, previous hiker. We chose not to branch off the trail to see Yellow Pine Falls. Successfully avoided “So pain. Much stings.”
Rachel at Werner Point
We turned around at Werner Point, a beautiful viewpoint overlooking a valley of fall colors!
travel friends looking out over the trees at Werner Point
Travel squad taking in the view at Werner Point.

Next time I am in the area, I will be sure to set aside some more time to either go further down the trail, or perhaps try to start from the other end.  This was a fantastic hike, and exactly the kind of nature break we needed before closing the trip out with a few more days of urban exploring!

Stay tuned for the final leg of Southeast Trip 2016: Nashville!

Southeast Trip 2016 – Blue Ridge Parkway and Chattanooga

overlooking the Blue Ridge Mountains as we travel down the Blue Ridge Parkway

After our biscuits in Asheville, it was time to take the Jeep down the Blue Ridge Parkway en route to Chattanooga!

Priorities:

  • Moderately challenging hikes with views
  • Taking the long way to Chattanooga on the Blue Ridge Parkway

Day 3 – Monday (cont.)

The goal for the drive from Asheville to Chattanooga was to get some great views on the Blue Ridge Parkway, and pick a good hike on the way.  The Blue Ridge Parkway is regarded as one of the best drives in America.  The winding roads through the mountains are especially picturesque in the fall, and there are plenty of opportunities to pull off to the side of the road and get some good pics.

travel companions overlooking Cherry Cove in the Blue Ridge Mountains
Plenty of scenic overlooks on the Blue Ridge Parkway

About halfway through the drive, we found the hike that we had selected: Devil’s Courthouse.  There is an easier way to get to the “courthouse,” but we chose a longer hike a little more off the beaten path.  It wasn’t too challenging, and after about an hour we were at our destination with a pretty sweet view.

me looking over Devils Courthouse
Taking in the view
Nate Rachel and Hilary in the woods
Goofin’ around

We arrived in Chattanooga around 5:30 and checked into our Airbnb in the Southside neighborhood.  The neighborhood seems to be undergoing the type of revitalization that seems to be going on in many mid-market cities these days – a previously-industrial warehouse type neighborhood being renovated into apartments, bars, and the like.  In Chattanooga, the Airbnb scene is definitely the way to go; there seemed to be a lot of really nice apartments available in good areas for good prices.

We were all pretty tired, so we decided to just get some dinner and turn in for the night.  We walked over to Terminal Brewhouse, which had quite good food and brews.  We gravitated toward the Southsidenstein Stout – a perfect beer for a #steintinerary.

Day 4 – Tuesday

For Rachel and me, Tuesday started off with a run up Market Street to the Tennessee River and back, in an attempt to do something somewhat healthy for once.  We instantly undid that with a big ol’ brunch at Bluegrass Grill, the top rated brunch place in Chattanooga.  From there, we walked over to Mean Mug for a coffee while we planned our next move.

It was a lovely day, so we determined our next move would be to meander about the Tennessee Riverwalk, and just chill outside for a bit!

view of a bridge from a dock on the Tennesee River in Chattanooga
A gorgeous day on the Tennesee River
view of the Tennesee Aquarium from the river
Looking back at the Tennessee Aquarium from a dock on the river
travel companions walking up a winding path on the Tennessee Riverwalk
The Lombard Street of Tennessee

Next, we wanted some inside time.  We tried to get into the Hunter Museum of American Art, but we thought the price was a little steep.  So instead of that, we walked back over to the Tennessee Aquarium.  It was definitely one of the more upper-echelon aquariums that I have visited, though I admit I haven’t been to many…

After the aquarium, Alena had some work to do for school, so the rest of us dropped her off back at the Airbnb and headed back out to walk around on a quest for snacks.  We stumbled upon the Hot Chocolatier, and got a ridiculous amount of sweets.  It was not your typical small-scale bakery or sweets spot, there was plenty of seating and it seemed like more of a large scale operation.  Quite good, but we ate way too much!

Next it was time to start drinking.  We had to do something to make ourselves forget about what we had just done to our pancreases.  Right down the street from our Airbnb was the Chattanooga Brewing Company, where we had a downright delightful experience.  The staff was super-friendly, they had a lovely outdoor patio, and the beers were outstanding.  If you go in the fall, definitely get the Oktoberfest – one of my favorite fall beers ever!

beer flight at Chattanooga Brewing Company
My kind of Tuesday afternoon

After a couple of flights, we made our way next door to the Southside Social.  In my research of the South, I noticed that these “socials” seem to be a thing down there.  Bigger establishments with food, drinks, bowling, large outdoor areas with lawn games, and the like.  A wonderful concept if you ask me (I’m very excited that one of these just opened in Rochester).  Again, this was a Tuesday afternoon, so we pretty much had our run of the place, including the Airstream outside which we posted up in for a drink or two.

drinking beers inside an Airstream in Chattanooga
Enjoying some brews in an Airstream at Southside Social

After the Social, we took an Uber back up to the river to have a delightful meal at Tony’s Pasta Shop and Trattoria, followed by post-dinner drinks at the divey Brewhaus across the river, and the trendy Flying Squirrel, which was probably the highlight of the places we visited in Chattanooga.  The building and space were gorgeous, and they had a great cocktail lineup and a lively crowd, even on a Tuesday.

Day 5 – Wednesday

We were up early on Wednesday morning, packing up for another hike day!  By the time we hit the road, we realized that we had established a tradition: hike day biscuits.

biscuit with fried chicken, cheese and apple butter, with a side of mac and cheese
“The Farmer” has fried chicken, pecan smoked bacon, cheddar, and house-made apple butter

After some hike fuel at Maple Street Biscuit Company we were ready to take on the Fiery Gizzard Trail…more on that coming soon!

Highlights:

  • Blue Ridge Parkway drive
  • Chattanooga Brewing Company
  • The Flying Squirrel

Next Time:

  • More hiking – either on Signal Mountain or Lookout Mountain
  • Paddleboarding or kayaking on the Tennessee River

What are your favorite hikes in the North Carolina mountains?  Hit me in the DMs!

Southeast Trip 2016 – Asheville

Biltmore Estate in Asheville

It was October 2016, and the West Coast Trip crew was back together again!  Being a huge fan of craft beer, I was very excited to visit Asheville, which I’d heard has some of the best breweries in the country!

Flights from Rochester to Asheville were quite expensive.  Since we were going to rent a car anyway to drive to Chattanooga and then to Nashville, we figured we may as well fly into Charlotte, rent a car there and make the 2 hour drive the rest of the way to Asheville.  We had even found flights that arrived from Rochester (for Rachel, Hilary, and me) and from San Diego (for Alena) within 2 minutes of each other!

Not pointing any fingers, but a missed flight in San Diego thwarted our Charlotte rendezvous 🤔.  But it’s all good – everybody made it, eventually…

Priorities:

  • Beer
  • Biscuits
  • BBQ

Day 1 – Saturday

The Rochester crew landed in Charlotte around 9:30am, and drove through the outskirts of an incoming tropical storm to get to Asheville around 11:45am.  Our first order of business was to get some Carolina BBQ for lunch.  We stopped at 12 Bones Smokehouse in Arden, about 15 minutes outside of Asheville.

two plates of barbecue, a beer, and bbq sauces in Asheville, NC
That pulled pork in the background was some of the best I’ve had

Everything was superb, but my favorite was the pulled pork sandwich.  For sides, definitely go with the jalapeno cheese grits and the corn pudding (which was definitely a new concept for me).

Our stomachs now full, we still had an hour or so until we could check into our Country Inn and Suites.  Normally I like to pick an Airbnb, but in Asheville (at least at this particular time) they were much more expensive than the decent hotels in the area, so we went with the chain accommodations.

We drove around the city a bit to kill some time, exploring some neighborhoods in the rental car until it was time to check in.  After check-in, it was time to go to the South Slope area for some brews!

South Slope is a small but very cool neighborhood.  With 10 or so craft breweries in a very concentrated area, there is plenty of beer to be drank within walking distance, even if it’s a little rainy.  We chose Burial Beer Co first, where we quickly noticed that at least 75% of Asheville has an awesome dog, and that same 75% plus probably 15% more is wearing flannel.  This is my kind of place.  Not to mention their Ammunition Horchata Dark Ale is 👌.

From there we walked over to Catawba Brewing, taking note for the next morning that Vortex Doughnuts was right next door.  Another short walk away was Wicked Weed Brewpub, where we had a great supper as we waited for Alena to arrive, before calling it a night…

Day 2 – Sunday

Sunday started off the only way a Sunday should: with donuts.  Or doughnuts.  Vortex Doughnuts, to be exact.

donuts and coffee at Vortex in Asheville
Doesn’t get much better than this on a Sunday morning 🍩

The donuts were crazy good, and the coffee and cappuccinos were great as well.  Just what we needed to fuel up for a day of walking around the Biltmore Estate.  The most well-known attraction in the city, the Biltmore is the largest privately owned home in America, and it is truly stunning.  The mansion itself, as well as the vast gardens and lands surrounding it are breathtaking.

friends taking pictures of the Biltmore Estate
Gotta get those pics!
Rachel and Hilary in front of the Biltmore Estate
Rachel and Hilary at the Biltmore
Rachel and Hilary in the Biltmore gardens with the mansion in the background
Exploring the grounds

At $75, tickets were a bit pricier than what I would usually pay for a tour like this.  It was remarkable, though, and I would especially recommend it if you enjoy visiting historic sites and learning about earlier times.  I would recommend setting aside more time than we did to see more of the grounds and really get your money’s worth, but for those on a tight schedule, we did a complete walk-through of the mansion and the gardens in about 2.5 hours.

It just seemed wrong that it was already 2:30 in Asheville and we hadn’t had a craft beer yet, so our next stop was Wedge Brewing in the up and coming River Arts District.

the outside of Wedge Brewing in Asheville NC
Food trucks, beer, and outdoor seating by the railroad tracks

In terms of atmosphere, this was probably my favorite brewery that we visited.  It was supremely hipster, in a warehouse situated between railroad tracks and the river, next to an art studio, with junkyard art and furniture everywhere and a food truck right outside.  One girl even had her pet parrot with her.  On top of that, the cherry raspberry wheat beer was pretty good too.

Don’t forget now, this was a football Sunday.  The Seahawks were on a bye week, but Hilary and Alena, two Rochester natives, being diehard Buffalo Bills fans as all Bills fans are, wanted to see their terrible team play.  In my research I had come across a local Bills bar about 15 minutes outside Asheville, so we put on our Bills gear and headed to 32 Ice Bar for the game (the Bills actually won!).  The bar was all right; if you’re just visiting Asheville, it can be skipped, unless of course you are a Bills fan and they are playing.

If you like sour beers, you definitely must check out the next place we went: Wicked Weed Funkatorium, back in the South Slope neighborhood.  This is the same Wicked Weed whose brewpub we had visited the night prior.  This location does all sours all the time, and all of them that we tried were sublime.  The Montmaretto, a sour brewed with almonds and cherries, is to this day the most outstanding sour I’ve ever tasted.  They also have a little shop in the back – I got a hat 😎.

barrels of sour beer at Wicked Weed Funkatorium
Sourz for dayz

We were getting pretty hungry, and the next stop on the #steintinerary was some southern comfort food at HomeGrown.  The short drive from downtown was well worth it.  The food was great (fried chicken with cheesy grits and gravy, with some sweet tea), and very reasonably priced.  On the way back to the hotel we stopped at The Hop Ice Cream Cafe for dessert, before turning in to watch the Trump v. Clinton presidential debate.  Oh, how long ago that seems…

Day 3 – Monday

We were up and at ’em early on Monday, with a decent drive and some hiking ahead of us.  But first, there were biscuits to be had.  At Biscuit Head, I had a catfish biscuit with a poached egg and red eye gravy, with a gravy flight on the side – it was fantastic.  If you go, there will likely be a line out the door, but it is absolutely worth the wait.  Possibly the best part was that they also served Genny Cream Ale – Rochester’s finest.  It was indeed a proper send-off to the next leg of the trip.

catfish biscuit with gravy and poached egg at Biscuit Head in Ashevile
Delicious hike fuel

Day 3 to be continued in an upcoming post on the Blue Ridge Parkway drive, hiking, and Chattanooga…

Highlights:

  • Vortex Doughnuts
  • Burial Beer Co
  • The Asheville dress code
  • HomeGrown
  • Biscuit Head
  • The whole thing really – I love Asheville.

Next Time:

What are your favorite spots in Asheville?

Southeast Trip 2016 – Preview

me sitting on a rock on a hiking trail overlooking the treetops in a valley on the Fiery Gizzard Trail

After the smashing success of West Coast Trip 2015, the group of travel companions decided to make a week-long, multi-city trip an annual occurrence!  Over a nice winter supper at one our favorite Italian restaurants, we discussed our ideas for the upcoming year’s trip.  Some options on the table for 2016 were New Orleans/Austin, Phoenix/Albuquerque, Denver/Salt Lake City, and Asheville/Nashville.  After some debate, we settled on the Asheville/Nashville option – Southeast Trip 2016 was born!

Once that decision was made and dates and flights were settled upon, we decided to stick a halfway point stop in there, and thus Chattanooga was added to the itinerary as well.  We were set for early October, flying into Charlotte within minutes of each other (Rachel, Hilary, and I from Rochester and Alena from San Diego), and from there renting a car to drive to Asheville for 2 days, then to Chattanooga for a day, followed by a hike day en route to Nashville for 3 more days.

I’ve never really been a big hiker, so that part of the research process was new for me.  I was surprised at how many hiking trail options there are in what is really not that big an area.  The hikes ended up being a couple of my favorite parts of the trip, and inspired me to check out hikes in my own area (and again, I was surprised at how many options there are).  I love my urban exploring, but working in a nature break or two may very well become a regular thing on #steintineraries!

It was also very interesting to plan for Chattanooga, a city that I knew literally nothing about.  We picked it purely for its location as a halfway point, and I had fun learning about the city’s history and neighborhoods as the baseline for my research.  Not that I thought Chattanooga was a slouch of a city, but just the fact that within a couple of days of research I was excited to explore a city that I previously knew nothing at all about confirmed my belief that every city has a story, and places worth checking out!

Anyway, with the logistics squared away, it was time to get started on the #steintinerary!  The focus for this trip was on Asheville’s craft beer scene, scenic hikes, southern BBQ, biscuits, and Nashville’s hot chicken and live music scene.  I had been to Nashville a few times before so I had a good idea of the spots I wanted to show the rest of the crew, but there’s always more research to be done.  It was also fun looking into Asheville’s breweries, autumn hikes along the Blue Ridge Parkway, and everything else!

Recaps of each leg of the trip coming soon…